Saturday, April 03, 2010

Almost 2 years! Building is a blast.

Dear Spring Friends and Family,

Many of you have been following this blog since before the first Spring ever opened.  The first Spring was a total anomaly and an exciting adventure that doesn't seem to be slowing down. At the time I started writing and taking pictures I was married, had a few euro dollars in my pocket from my first job as a chef and no idea what I was getting myself into.  Seems as though nothing as changed.  Out went the marriage and the euro bucks, but I still have no idea what I am getting myself into.

After two years of cooking at the first Spring, I began remodeling a former skateboard shop and optimistically announced an opening date that I can't even remember.  Why close a fabulously successful restaurant?  Lots of reasons, really.  And a whole lot of questions.  What does it mean to be successful? Do we enjoy what we are doing?  Is it really a restaurant if you have to wait five months for the next available table? How can we improve the experience for our customer?
For ourselves? Can both improvements be made at the same time? Is this the kind of place we like to go? Is this a passing fad or do we actually know what the hell we're doing?

The only thing I am sure of is that there is nothing to be sure of.
Especially when you think you know what you're doing there is always something more to learn.

The principal behind Spring's ever changing menu is that every day is an empty page and tomorrow is an opportunity to improve on yesterday's mess. Why not make a picture or a poem that someone else might enjoy?  The temporality of enjoyment, pleasure and satisfaction requires constant attention, adjustment, reflection...  Today's langoustines are different than today's langoustines tomorrow or even tomorrow's langoustines tomorrow.  Products are important but so is everything else.  Our mood, the time of year, the weather...  The best dinners we've ever made were ones where everything was in a sort of pretty synchronization.  The worst dinners (and their have been some bad ones) usually were problems that began with the ingredients not being at their best which lead to us feeling rotten and uninspired and unable to find any sort of solution that might please the customer or ourselves.  I remember (and cringe) at a certain Jarret de Veau and a Lieu Jaune that make me want to turn off the lights and hide in a closet.  The point of the new restaurant is to give us the tools to make our best efforts more frequent - fewer ups and downs.  More of our energy in the right places.  The last restaurant was vibrantly precarious and cooking there was a colossal effort which no doubt took away from the customers' experience.

I suppose the short story is that I like to create problems and then try to find an elegant solution.  The cases of fresh produce and fish and meat that arrive in the restaurant every morning creates a certain tension that needs to be resolved before the customers arrive. The same process is at work on a different scale as I try to imagine a business model that actually works, is sustainable and creates happy employees, a satisfied boss and most importantly, satisfied customers.

I'm not saying that we always get it right, but we do our best to always give the best we can.
The point of this business is, after all, to please.

One of the best parts of the last few years and quite surely the last 30 years is the day when Marie walked into the restaurant to have dinner.  My world turned on its head for the better.  There is no question that I find most of my energy for these projects in her love. I am endlessly inspired by her talent, sensitivity, beauty, modesty and her capacity to put up with me.  It would be a bit over the top to say that I can't do anything without her, but it would be perfectly true to say that I don't want to do anything without her.  Everyone should be so lucky to find such a perfect partner.

On July 4, it will be nearly two years since I began working on the renovation of a former skateboard shop in the first arrondissement.  Since then, I've closed Spring, opened Table 28, closed and sold Table 28 (the old Spring), and opened a Spring Boutique that is frequently confused with the old restaurant, the new restaurant and a lobster sandwich joint that we began running last summer at the old space.

Having trouble following? Me too.

If everything continues to go according to plan the new restaurant could be opened before my next birthday.

Today, the construction is actually only a few weeks behind schedule.  Most of the delays were administrative.  The construction site was dormant for about 8 months while we were waiting for the city's blessing.  Since receiving approval last October, we haven't stopped banging, chopping, painting, digging and dreaming...

Being a cook is hard work.  Being a chef is a whole different set of problems.  General contractor, CEO, PR, accountant... It's a good thing it is no longer a 'one man chaud'.  SPRING is now a team of interesting and talented people.

Marie, Josh, Fabien, Sofian', Ola and another Daniel (if he gets his working papers in order) and I are all eager to start serving you again in our digs as soon as we can.

Thank you all for your fidelity, patience and especially your 'gourmandise'.

A tres bientot,

Daniel

8 comments:

djdupuis said...

Daniel,
We have been lucky enough to eat at the old Spring twice and even luckier to have enjoyed a cooking class with you and Marie Aude last May. Although we loved everything you served us, it was your enthusiasm, your modesty, your sense of humour, in short you, who kept us coming back. You are a very talented chef who also is appreciative of his diners and his employees. You have created a place where people want to be, in part because of your unbelievably wonderful food but also because of the atmosphere you create and maintain. Marie Aude is such a great complement to your talent and character, you are a true team in every sense of the word.
We hope to once again enjoy your skills and company in the fall. I'll come by the new boutique when I visit with my daughter in May to see if we can beg for a reservation for late September/early October! In the meantime, good luck on your final renovations. You are truly one of a kind!

Jo (& Den)

gailparis said...

What a lovely statement - marie is one lucky girl!! Can't wait for the opening we will be there with bells on!!!
ps so when is your birthday so we can get ready???

gailparis said...

What a great statement. Wow Marie's ears should be burning (only figuratively).
We are so excited about the new place - can't wait.
All the best
Gail et co
ps when is your birthday so we can get ready???

Jason Fist said...

I particularly liked:

"Today's langoustines are different than today's langoustines tomorrow or even tomorrow's langoustines tomorrow".

Existential, man! Don't know what 'special ingredients' you're using at the moment, but I want some ;-)

Looking forward to the opening.

Dominique said...

"The only thing I am sure of is that there is nothing to be sure of." Daniel, may you be remaining so, we just love it !

Upon reading your post, I got this feeling that putting all these questions in writing was sort of "therapeutic" : being able to write them down means that you now have found some of their replies and are getting "pacified".

Just a personal impression after being touched by all this.

The carrot's husband.

pauline said...

Daniel et Marie, vous êtes supers, on vous adore, on a hâte de venir au New Spring, mais même si c'est pas tout de suite, car on sait que ce sera génial. Et outre votre cuisine toujours merveilleuse, c'est surtout l'ambiance et votre gentillesse que l'on vient déguster !
pauline et matthieu

Linda said...

Daniel and Marie, Emily sent a link to me about your new restaurant -- it sounds wonderful -- from the food to the building itself. We are wishing you all the best!

sarah said...

You are off to a delectable start! Today's lunch rated amongst the best meals of my life; thanks so much to you all for accommodating and spoiling me so warmly and generously this afternoon. It was a truly delightful experience being in your kitchen.

Sarah